Congratulations on buying your first DSLR! Now you are well and truly on the road to photographic nirvana! Your DSLR is a very powerful tool for making images. With it you can control the amount of light reaching the sensor, thus, allowing you to balance an exposure, pursue creative ways to express yourself through your images and in essence capturing more than just light inside the small box. For all practical reasons a DSLR is the only camera you will ever need.
But there are more to good compositions than just the camera. A good composition involves not only a good subject matter or a moment but also good light and of course clever use of all the elements to put together an image. Literally, you don’t take an image, you make it.
Good light is unfortunately something which is not within the control of a photographer. However, if you are really good with a camera and have an astute sense of lighting, you will be able to make better use of the available light than most. But even the most experienced photographer, at times, require additional lighting tools to fine tune a composition. In this article we shall be looking at one such tool - speedlight or an external flash.
Every Independence Day, or even Memorial or Labor Day, it’s common — a given, even — to see fireworks light up the night sky. They make for wonderful sights and sounds for large gatherings, but fireworks also make great photographs. Its just about knowing how to capture such colorful images.
Shooting fireworks is fairly simple, but it takes some planning and equipment to do so. However, follow these tips and you too can have wonderful photos of those sky rockets.
Neutral density filters are primarily used for balancing exposures. By balancing exposure, I mean adjusting the amount of light that enters the lens so that the scene appears uniformly lit across the frame and every inch of it is exposed properly. A properly balanced image will show a histogram that is clustered more towards the middle of the graph. Too much on the right and you have an over-exposed image and too much on the left means you have under-exposed.
Technically speaking, an under-exposed image is better than an over-exposed one, because you would still be able to salvage some details from an under-exposed image. You would need to shoot in RAW for that. However, getting the exposure correct in-camera is the best option by far.
The reason these filters are called as neutral is because they stop light across the spectrum equally, without any bias. Consider them as shades for your camera lens.
Multiple camera shots with different expose combined in HDR photo
If you are just starting out in digital photography, you have probably never heard about auto exposure bracketing (AEB). If you are an enthusiast photographer, probably you have heard about this but never quite mastered the concept to use it with confidence. Regardless of your expertise in digital photography this article can help you master an extremely important feature of your DSLR, i.e.; auto exposure bracketing (AEB).
Cameras like the Canon 5D Mark III and the Nikon D3X have completely changed the playing field when it comes to low light photography. In the earlier days photographers would have no way to change the ASA (ISO as it was called in those days) once they had loaded a film in their cameras. They were pretty much stuck with the film sensitivity until they changed it. That had a limiting effect on their creativity and it ensured that they were careful about their selection of film before heading out.
These days, digital photographers have a much easier time. They could change the ISO (light sensitivity of the sensor) just with the flick of a button. Cameras like the D800 comes with the added advantage of a greater dynamic range, allowing photographers to compose and make images that are closer to what they see with their naked eyes.
Yet, there are certain time-tested and useful tips that you need to know in order to nail good exposures in low light conditions. These are, in no way, alternatives to the ability of your camera to shoot in low light. Rather, these are complimentary to a high ISO capability.
Video version of the How to Smooth Skin in Photoshop Tutorial by Savannah Eaddy.
View all steps in the first part Tutorial: How to Smooth Skin in Photoshop.
Image before white balance correction
Are you plagued with the problem of strange color casts in your images? Many a times after taking a picture with our little Point & Shoot cameras the results fail to impress us. Having taken a picture, say under a dominating source of fluorescent light or for that matter a tungsten light bulb, the images appear to have a strong color cast. To be a little more precise a tungsten light source will have a yellow color cast and a fluorescent light will have a bluish color cast. Why does this happen? This happens because every light source has a color temperature and that is what is captured by the digital sensor when the image is made.
Photoshop is an amazing tool. For some it is the only post processing tool that they would ever need. From color correction, to changing skin tones, removing blemishes, increasing sharpness and removing stuffs from the picture that you didn’t want in the first place, Photoshop has a wide range of applications for both photographers and photo editors. But these are just some of the clichéd uses of this amazing software. Beyond that Photoshop has much wider applications, some of which may even be on the borderline of what is called as ‘illegal’ in terms of photographic authenticity.
Whether they dabble in photography or shoot with the pros, most photographers know that there is no better time than early morning or early evening to take a gorgeous photograph. These are the “golden hours,” when warm light angles through clouds to reflect rich, textured color. Unfortunately, these “golden hours” could be more accurately described as “golden quarter hours” or, better yet, “golden ten minutes” for all the time they allow us to head outside, set up a shoot, and snap a publishable photograph.
This means that for most photographers, shooting in the middle of the day is inevitable: this is when we’re out with friends, our kids‘ sports games are played, or we’re out exploring our vacation surroundings. It’s true that there are plenty of amazing photos that were taken outside of the so-called “golden hour,” but it’s likely just as true that the photographers of those amazing photos had to make some adjustments to deal with the inevitably harsh natural lighting of an afternoon. Here are a few tips to help you battle harsh lighting on your own mid-day shoot. While you won’t need to use every tip for every photograph, it’s worth being aware of them for the time when the perfect scene presents itself.
1. Dress appropriately
Check the weather for the altitude you’ll be shooting at. The temperature and weather conditions will be completely different at ground level as they are up the hill. Never wear cotton. Cotton will soak up any sweat you may produce and the cold temperatures will freeze it. So you’ll end up wearing freezing cold clothing.
Invest in some great gloves. You won’t be able to wear glove all the time. You may need to get your hand out to change your camera settings or access gear in your camera bag. I had a pair of gloves that came with little glove liners, so when I pulled them out of the big warm shells I was still somewhat protected. The shells were big enough to slim my hand back in without much effort and I could still press the shutter to take a picture.